Charging Problem 71' Buggy

[RDCII]

K this is really starting to get annoying.
Ive replaced the regulator, TWICE now.
Replace the Generator.
Rewired the entire car.
Still NOT Charging...
The Generator is giving off volts when running, More as I rev it up..
There some power coming off the Regulator but the battery is not charging..
Also a new battery.
My concern now lies after the regulator.. I have Terminal "61" going to the dummy light then to ground...
is that right???
When I idle the light is on, as I rev the engine it gets super bright, when I let off gas, the buggy dies.
As it dies the light slowly starts to dim..
Here is a picture to show how I have it wired...
Thanks for all the help. Ive gone over so many wiring diagrams my head hurts...

[GregR]

61 from teh regulator does go to the "dummy" light. If light is in original location in VW speedo, I believe speedo housing acts as ground for the indicator lights. So sounds like that part is correct. Have you checked your wiring TO the regulator? Sounds like you having something hooked up backwards. The dummy light should act as an excitor to get the generator to charge.

In your picture, terminal Directly above 61 should be D+ and should connect to D+ on generator. Directly above B+ trerminal should be DF and should connect to DF on generator. What is wire that appears to be jumping DF and D+? Diagrams I've seen don't show that.

[MURZ]

The idiot light should be hooked one leg to terminal 61 and the other to the ignition switch. it grounds through the regulator.........

On a stock speedo the lights are isolated ground and fed with a common "hot" wire. As a sensor grounds...such as an oil pressure switch or the regulator "idiot light" they come on.

[RDCII]

I dont have the stock speedo hooked up anymore.
From 61 I got it hooked to the a indicator light then from there to Ignition now.
The light went out, so I took it for a short drive, did ok.
But when i got back it, the light came on again.. lol
Im at a lost right now. heres a pic of the regulator again, this time with labels.
I dont have anything crossed or nothing just kinda looks that way cause there taped.
The little black wire inbetween D+ and DF is a ground wire coming from the little post on the generator toward the back.

Thanks for you input, wondering if just swapping over to an alternator would be easier... IDK..

RDCII

[GregR]

So then on your test drive, the dummy light didn't get brighter as engined revs went up, but rather now goes out as RPM increases?

I might suspect a short or ? somewhere in the system as it appears you have the regulator wired correctly. The symptom of the dummy light getting brighter in your first post, but now gone is a bit troubling. My buggy has an alternator, alternator light will sometimes come on at idle or very low rpm, but goes out as soon as rpms come up.
Have to checked to make sure your generator is charging?

Guys, could it be that he "re-excited" the generator while trying to get it to operate correctly and that all is well now?

[RDCII]

Well no go,
With new Regulator, it worked for about 5 miles,
Came home, bam, Light came back on...
Checked gen, No volts, nada...
Since it was bought bout 2 weeks ago, I brought it back.
Got a new one today, or refurbed one.
Hooked it up, no volts.. hahah
So got money back, ordering the alternator Kit from Chirno
tommorow. 3 generators and 2 regulators later can you blame me...

Ill keep yall updated.

RDCII

[GregR]

We'll cross our fingers, but with 3 generators and 2 regulators, seems like you have a problem hiding somewhere in the system.

[Ken]

Are you polarizing your generator?
I posted this on a different site years ago, I can't recall the original source, so can't give specific credit, but it has been very helpful for me.

********************************************************
Is my generator charging?

If you have a voltmeter:

* Measure the voltage across the battery. Should be around 12.6 volts with the engine off. As the engine speeds up, the voltage should increase to somewhere around 14 volts. If it does, the generator is working and charging the battery.
* Check brushes are not worn excessively. If you can, apply a little pressure to the brushes while the engine is running and see if the gen light goes out or the voltmeter reading increases.

If you do not have a voltmeter:

* Get the car started, even by jumping if required.
* Remove the + cable at the battery
* The car should remain running. If it dies your generator is not charging.
* It the car remains running, begin increasing the electrical load. Turn on lights, radio, everything that will increase your electrical load.
* If at any time your car struggles to stay running, you are not producing enough power for your cars demand.
* Check brushes are not worn excessively. If you can, apply a little pressure to the brushes while the engine is running and see if the gen light goes out or the voltmeter reading increases.

Replace brushes if required.

Generator Testing

* Disconnect the generator from the regulator (probably easiest to simply take the wires off the generator).
* Connect a jumper from DF on the generator to the generator frame. Now run the engine and measure the voltage from ground to D+ on the generator.

NOTE: Some generators have different types of terminals; verify which is DF and which is D+.

* As you increase the engine speed, the voltage should jump up to +35 volts or so (@3000 RPM).

If it passes this test, the generator is good. Don't run this test longer than necessary as it will overheat the generator.
If it fails this test, the generator may be good but need to be polarized. Check out "How To Polarize Your Generator".

NOTE: These tests are for 12V generators. The same tests will work on 6V generators but the voltages will be roughly one half the 12V values.
Second, a little bit about polarizing
Why do generators need to be polarized? Generators need some magnetism to get started. This "residual" magnetism remains in the field pole pieces even after the engine has stopped. The next time the generator starts up, the residual magnetism creates a small voltage in the Armature windings. Not enough to charge the battery, but enough to allow the field windings to draw current. As the field current increases, the pole pieces create even more magnetism. That makes even more voltage in the armature, and the cycle continues until the generator is capable of producing maximum output.

Anytime a generator is disconnected from the system, there is a possibility the residual magnetism may have decreased to the point where it can no longer get the generator started producing voltage. In the case of a new generator or one which has been mis-treated, the residual may even be of the wrong direction (north and south poles reversed).

Polarization is a simple process used to restore the field pole residual magnetism and ensure the magnetic direction is correct.

Now, How to Polarize Your Generator

* Remove the fan belt.
* Connect a jumper wire from DF to ground.
* Connect a wire from the battery + terminal to D+ on the generator.
* The generator shaft should start to spin.
* Don't run this way for more than a few seconds to avoid overheating.
* If the generator did not spin, the generator is likely defective.
* The generator will now be properly polarized.
* If it did, put the belt back on and re-test for generator voltage with DF grounded. If the output voltage is still low, the generator is defective.

Do regulators need to be polarized?
No, regulators are not polarity-sensitive. The instructions supplied with some voltage regulators, actually polarize the generator, not the regulator.

[Hawk]

When you get your new alt, You can use volt meter Don't use amp gauge. You will replace the alt if you do.

[RDCII]

K sorry took so long to repy.. life got in way lol..
Recieved my alt/stand and new doghouse for Chirco.
Went on perfectly. Charges like a dream... So that helps reassure me
that I had it wired right, just got 3 defaulty gens in a row...
Thanks all for help, Im sure Ill need more in future.
Next is Gas tank, and Im going to go ahead and change out the clutch/flywheel and anything else I can when
I drop the engine out.

Thanks again,
RDCII

[Ken]

ooooo shinny....