Engine Rebuild?

[mwh986]

How tough is a 1600 SP to rebuild?

I know JC Whitney has rebuild kits with the jugs/pistons, seals, push rod tubes, bearings, etc.

Are there tricks to a rebuild to watch for, or rather straight forward with a book as a guide?

I'm rather handy, but would hate to devote a fair amount of time and $500.00 in parts for a not so stellar outcome.

[Don]

It is definitely possible for the average person to rebuild their own engine. I rebuilt my 1600 DP with absolutely no prior experience and I'm not all that handy to boot! I used the Tom Wilson book and the Bug-me video as my guides. I would not have attempted it without both of those in hand.

[mwh986]

Awesome news!


Since you have endured the process........Any pointers on the rebuild?

Where did you get parts?
How long did it take you?
Any mousetraps to watch for?

Thanks a million in advance.

[Don]

I bought most of my parts from a local supplier (Kar Parts) mostly because I wanted to support his business but his prices were good too. A few thinks I mail ordered. I actually made a speadsheet of all the parts I bought, where I bought them and how much I paid. I could e-mail it to you if you are interested.

I probably spent a month working on it but I was not in a hurry and I was doing a lot of other things like swapping the transmission, fixing the brakes, cleaning and painting the chassis etc. There are a few pictures here: http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z217/donmac_bucket/Engine%20Rebuild/?start=0. Sorry, they are in reverse order.

Not sure I really have any great tips that aren't in the book or video. You do need to check your case and heads for cracks which are pretty common. Both of my heads were cracked but I was lucky enough to have a spare set.

[mwh986]

Hey Don,

Nice photo history on the rebild! Looks great. I have also started a spreadsheet on my project, great idea.

I appreciate the info and will keep y'all informed.

[MURZ]

Disassemble the engine and place all parts in a tote. Clean them, including the case spotlessly. Load up the crank , heads,and case and take to a VW machine shop and have them check for main bearing saddle wear as well as thrust. Most cases will need a line bore. Have the heads checked for cracks. I personally install new heads on every rebuild. Stainless windage pushrod tubes add bling and work well. Use ultra gray around cylinder bases, cam plug, under alt stand and fuelpump. I use avaiation sealer for case halves and cylinder studs. Seat the rear main seal all the way in and lube it. Don't forget the flywheel oring. Thick gasket goes under the oil pump, thin on top. Pack oil pump with white assembly lube. On main bearings stick them in the case before you install on crank and check for tight fit and oil gallery alingment. I have had to dremel adjust many bearing sets for proper oil flow. Mark the sides and top of the bearings with a black marks a lot. That's most of it......

Oh yea new Engine hardware is cheap and makes the engine look nice.

Take plenty of pics and pm me if you get stuck.

[BuggymanJohn]

Place a piece of sewing thread along the lower edge of the block halves prior to asm. This seals the gap between the halves and helps eliminate leaks. JB

[mwh986]

Alright!

Sounds like great info.

I'm currently rebuiding the brakes ans will move the engine next.

What is "Ultra Grey"?
How about a brand of vaiation sealer?
And assembly lube brand?

Sewing Thread on the lower case seal for leaks? WOW!

All new stuff to me, but exciuted about the rebuild.

Oh, and it is not a 1600DP but a 1500 SP engine.

Mark

[Don]

How about a brand of vaiation sealer?
And assembly lube brand?

Permatex 3H is the old standard:
http://www.qualitydist.net/per-80019.html

I used Lucas assembly lube. It's available at auto parts stores.