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Postby Patrick » 25 Sun Dec, 2005 9:29 pm

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Last edited by Patrick on 23 Wed Mar, 2022 2:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby bobaganoosh » 25 Sun Dec, 2005 11:41 pm

mine was on there so long not even the impact would get it off. so out with the dremel tool and cut off wheel. I cut mine off and so did my buddy. got new ones from doug at qualitat. he had a few extra for other cars so he gave them to us. thats why I keep going back.

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Postby Aquabuggy » 26 Mon Dec, 2005 8:56 am

Use one of these with a big hammer.
http://www.mooreparts.com/Merchant2/mer ... ode=TTTTTT
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Postby carlos del carpio » 26 Mon Dec, 2005 10:53 am

Aquabuggy got it right...but get two...if they're that stuck, you may destroy the tool with one nut removal (well, at least I have!) Hopefully you can get one locally, as the postage will surely cost more than the tool!

Also, on the little 'square' on the tool, use a half-inch cheater bar/extension bar....it's moreso to hold the tool in place, and I've tried to remove a nut without it, wheeee! It goes flying.
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Postby Mike & Mel » 26 Mon Dec, 2005 1:04 pm

I would stay away from the whacker type nut remover! If your axle nuts are on that thight, you WILL destroy the bearing trying to get it off. Get a Torque Dude axle nut remover. A bit pricey, but ABSOLUTELY worth it. It uses an open reduction gear to increase torque. You only need a 3/8" ratchet/torque wrench and about 30lbs of torque to generate 270 lbs of torque on the nut (No scrapped knuckles, smashed fingers or getting out of breath). It will not destroy anything on the hub either. Makes for R&R of the rear drum or flywheel very quick and easy. It's one of the V.W. tools that is a MUST HAVE. You can find them in the ads in D.B. and Hot V.W.'s magazine. Only issue is that it only fits on the V.W. 4-bolt or wide-5 bolt pattern drums. You would need to make an adapter for other bolt patterns.
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Postby carlos del carpio » 26 Mon Dec, 2005 4:34 pm

nut tool, 8-9 bucks. bearing, what, 10-12 bucks? Torque tool, 60. ;-)
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Postby David O' » 26 Mon Dec, 2005 6:29 pm

Even a small air compressor, like the remodeling peole use is enough pressure to get the nut off. (Lowe's) You can get impact guns at most pawn shops for cheap. You might find the air compresser there also. Just make sure that they work when you take them out.
Maybe one of these days, I'll give out instructions on how I built my own compresser using an air conditioning pump, butane bottle and some fittings. It has worked for me for over thirty years! LOL!
If you get a small compresser, you will wonder why you ever desided to build a car without one! Makes a lot of things easier to do and saves a lot of time!
Just my two cents worth. ;-)
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Postby carlos del carpio » 26 Mon Dec, 2005 11:17 pm

I've used a compressor/impact wrench on a rear nut, oil went everywhere.. nut won, gun lost. :cry:
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Postby David O' » 27 Tue Dec, 2005 12:17 am

What oil?
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Postby carlos del carpio » 27 Tue Dec, 2005 12:34 am

in the impact gun it flew everywhere!
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Postby David O' » 27 Tue Dec, 2005 12:51 am

Oh, man, I would have liked to have been there to see that! LOL! Did someone tell you to fill it up to get more power? If they did, go slap them!
I did that once, but only because I forgot to run the gun without a load to get the oil out of the air! In case anyone else is reading this.....you need to put a LITTLE bit of oil into the intake of the gun, to help to keep it lubed, but not to use it like that. And you don't do that every time!
Remindes me of the time I told a guy about how to align bore a block without getting the chips in the oil holes. Using grease, to plug the holes before you start. When he ask how to get the grease out, I told him to blow it out with air from the back side. I forgot to tell him to cover the holes with a rag before doing this and he was looking right at the insde of the block when the grease and the chips came flying out of the holes at warp speed.
After he got the grease out of the pores of his skin, he agreed that this had to be one of the funniest things to see......talk about getting egg on your face! LOL! I think that we laughed about that for at least a week!
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Postby carlos del carpio » 27 Tue Dec, 2005 11:41 am

Nah, wasn't my gun, but I did get him another one, for pity's sake.... The impact wrench sounded like a dying cat when it happened...
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Postby David O' » 27 Tue Dec, 2005 3:52 pm

Hmmm! That sounds like the gun was broken.....I hope you didn't have to buy a gun to replace a broken one. :oops:
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Postby Patrick » 28 Wed Dec, 2005 11:18 am

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Postby carlos del carpio » 28 Wed Dec, 2005 12:05 pm

Not to be insulting, but it may be a 'doh' moment....

you are moving the nut in a counter-clockwise direction, right? :oops:

I have faith in the breaker bar with the axle tool. I hold the breaker bar in my left hand, keeping tension on it, and whack the tool with my right..if you have a buddy to hold the bar, you can get more balance and more WHACKING POWER! :twisted:
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Postby JD » 28 Wed Dec, 2005 4:59 pm

Ever thought about putting a little heat on the nut? Does wonders sometimes..
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Postby David Head » 28 Wed Dec, 2005 5:23 pm

I remember that's what I had to do to get mine lose. I had to use a torch. the little propane torch that you get for Plumbing projects might get hot enough to do the trick. I would try that before I started cutting. Those propane torches are under 10 bucks at the hardware store. David
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Postby David O' » 28 Wed Dec, 2005 7:18 pm

Hey, maybe you could go to the local tire store and pay them 5 bucks to use your socket and their air power, and break them loose like that. They don't have to be real tight to tow the car to and from, and all you have to do is put the cotter pin back in until you get home. I don't know why I didn't think of that before!
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Postby Mike & Mel » 29 Thu Dec, 2005 12:51 pm

All this effort for nothing so far. I'm telling you, the Torque Dude works -first time, every time, and no skinned knuckles or smashed fingers :D . Yeah, a bearing doesn't cost much if you know to replace it if it get's damaged. But if you don't replace it and it IS damaged, the accident down the road when the bearing siezes will cost MUCH MUCH more than the $20 bucks you saved earlier. And the time saved pulling the axle to replace the bearing could be put to other uses ;-) . Just my $0.02 worth.
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Postby Texasbuggys » 29 Thu Dec, 2005 1:31 pm

Yep, the tool Mike and Mel are describing works like a champ and is specifically desegned to do the job right the first time. Yu can get by with the hammer tool and a drum holder most times as I have the drum hammer tool and built a drum holder and it works 99.9% of the tim but not 100% The other one works 100% of the time. I have broke off wheel studs while holding the drum and hammering on the stub axle nut before, it typically trashers the drum when it happens so one otr two drum and you have the cost of the tool.
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Postby David Head » 29 Thu Dec, 2005 2:33 pm

Where do you find one of these tools? Anybody have a link? David
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Postby Texasbuggys » 29 Thu Dec, 2005 4:57 pm

check out Hot VW's and search for best prices.
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Postby Patrick » 29 Thu Dec, 2005 9:59 pm

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Postby Mike & Mel » 30 Fri Dec, 2005 1:15 pm

:D I love it when a plan comes together! ;-)
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Postby blackthree4me » 31 Sat Dec, 2005 1:02 pm

sorry I was so late on this one
I broke two craftsmen breaker bars and one snapon one time.
I had to cut one of mine off on the sand rail.
I have the hamer wrench also, but have not used it yet.
I found after the rebuild they come on and off OK its just that first time.
instead of the touqre master I would just cut the nut down to close and give it a good whack with a hamer and chisel to break it thru.
no thread damage no bearing damage and new nuts were probobly needed any way

some of my bigest problems have been getting drums off
a 3 jaw puller is required for that. rent at local auto parts
a little never sieze (on the splines only) going back on always makes it easer the next time
glad you are having fun
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Postby carlos del carpio » 31 Sat Dec, 2005 1:14 pm

Hm...I had a problem removing the drum once, but it was with the nut removed..I removed the CV joint, and put it out of the way. Then, I put a rail road spike (yup, a rail road spike) on the end of the cv axle shaft, and hammered away..axle slipped out, drum fell off! :lol:
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quick and easy

Postby Texasbuggys » 31 Sat Dec, 2005 9:26 pm

1.) Grab torch!
2.) Turn on gas!
3.) Strike and light torch!
4.) Cut the ever loving life out of the nut, and threads of stub axle!
5.) Hammer it like ya own it and it will probably come out if ya cut it nice and clean.
6.) Ta Da! It is out. Now on to part two!

A.) Pick up the phone and call your l;ocal parts guys and order all new parts! They go back together so nicely. Or rob some good used ones off the parts car ya already have out back. Na, that is to much work, I think hammer on it and get'r off like Patrick did works for most drum removals but for the others or for someone who is messing with old cars the too for the job is a great investment. Ask for one for you B-Day!
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