Front Beam disassembly

[CoryN]

I have my front beam (link/king pin) off of the pan.

I want to pull the knuckles/spindles off the ends to be able to get at everything to clean up all the crud for paint, and also to replace the seals at the ends of the tubes, which contributed to all the crud I am having to clean up.

Any keys to this?

I'd like to just pull the tie rods so I can slide the arms off the ends, but judging by the angles of the bolts holding the tie rods, I don't think I can just pound them out, and I was hoping I didn't have to undo the length of the tie rods, which is just going to make reassembly and realignment more difficult.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Cory

[Don]

You can rent a tie-rod end puller at AutoZone for free. You pay the purchase price and if you bring it back within 45 days they give you your money back. Get the kind that presses the end out rather than the pickle fork type, it's eaiser and there is less chance of bending something. I think they may call it a Pitman Arm puller but it works on tie-rods too.

Don

[jspbtown]

1. Pull the drums off so you can clean, inspect, and repack the bearings and replace any wheel seals if needed (I suggest it...real cheap).
2. The backing plates are just held on by a few bolts. Remove them with all the brakes attached. That way you can clean obe completely, install new brakes, and still have an old one for reference. Like this:

3. Disconnect tie rods (I suggest new ones...now is the time!) and remove knuckles by the link pins. Remember, the camber is adjusted by shims in front of and behind the knuckles. There are instructions online that I can find if you need them. Almost every front end I have worked on was hacked regarding the shims. A new link pin kit may be in order. Inspect both king and link pins for wear in the bushings. None of my cars have ever had any bushing wear so if things are tight....leave them be.
4. trailing arms can be remove by loosening the grub screws that attach them to the spring packs. There are seals there that should be replaced if needed.
5. Clean everything really good, prime with a rust converter type rattle can primer, and finish with a paint of choice (I like some of the rattle can ceramic engine paints).

[CoryN]

specifically how do you disconnect the tie rod ends? Do you just back off the nut to the end of the bolt and whack it? I don't want to break anything, and not knowing what it looks like underneath/inside that joint I'm a little leery.

Thanks

[Vee Dub Nut]

The tie rod ends need to be separated from the pitman arm at the steering box and at the spindles. You can go to your local autozone and rent a pickle fork that will take care of tie rod ends. Slip the pickle fork under the tie rod between it and the pitman arm/spindle and whack with a BFH

No need to replace the tie rods if they are not bent.. just repaint and replace the tie rod ends. With the body off of the chassis you can align the front with some careful measurements (1/8" total toe in)

[big balls magee]

is it me or in the last pic is that drivers side break line way too short? looks like when you turn it might tear

[David Head]

Remember, Your looking at it in 2 dimensions. It (the brake line) probably sags towards the ground. And this sagging can't be seen in the pic. My .02 worth.

[big balls magee]

you are prolly right it just looks short

[jspbtown]

Nope, just the angle. The bend is on the same plane as the camera. Here is another angle...and interestingly the right side now looks too tight!

[Bill K]

Quite often the tie rod ends can be removed from the arms by holding a heavy hammer against the arm on one side of the tie rod bolt, and whacking the other side of the arm with another heavy hammer. They are tapered, and often will just drop out.

[Buggy1]

I would not hit them with a hammer, cause they don't just drop out some times and you ruin them. Get a tie rod puller, most vw places have one and they are never a waste of money ( and they are not exspensive ). I pretty sure David O has them.

When you take them apart check the sealo and rubber to make sure you have a good one to put back on..................they are not that much cost should you need another one and SAFTEY first. If you have to replace one, the count the treads showing on the rod and when yo pu the new one back with that many treads showing it will not effect the settings.

Neal