Engine Oil

[Bill K]

What weight / brand oil are you all running in your engines?

[CoilMan]

Castro 20w-50, all year round. I am not so hung up on brands, but Castro seems always available.

Ken

[Bryan Porter]

Same for me Bill I like the 20w50 for the heat

[staggerwing]

Don't know what the heck I drained out of this new engine but it didn't look like the oil I'm used to seeing....

Replaced with 10/30 as that's all I had on the shelf. I guess after following this post a bit, it may change to 20/50! Thanks for the post Bill.

Put one of the billet sump plates on this weekend to see if I could stop the very smail oil leak I had with the stock plate... it leaks a lot more now than it did before!

[Mike & Mel]

Here is an interesting thread on engine oil reformulation. Looks like the oil companies are reformulating oil to prevent damage to new car catylitic converters. Seems that the zinc and phosphorus we need for proper lubrication in an A/C engine can damage the converter. So they removed the minerals, and now we are seeing substantial valve train wear and eventual failure. Check it out.

http://p066.ezboard.com/frbcdunebuggyfrm14.showMessage?topicID=50.topic

[MURZ]

The general concencous on other forums seems to be to use Shell rotella 15w40 because like the previous post said it still contains the zinc needed for our solid lifters.

With rollers lifters and the tightening of emissions the oil companies had deleted zinc from their additive packages. We need it.

Another alternative is to use whatever oil you want and add EOS from GM. EOS is a additive used in engine breakin and is high in zinc as well.

[David O']

Bill, in our heat, and we have it, I would only use 20w 50w oil. As far as the sump plate goes, there is a simple fix for that.......I showed greg how it was done.

[Mike & Mel]

Even the Shell Rotella is being reformulated. Here is a quote from the thread that I posted the link to above.

* *** Updated 2-2-06 ***
I used to recommend heavy duty diesel engine oils like Shell Rotella but their formula has changed to protect diesel engine catalytic converters. My plan is to use Hughes Engines Extreme Pressure Oil Additive, as using this with any oil will address any concern about any oil's flat tappet cam compatibility.

Try using the red STP 4-cylindar oil treatment each oil change. That is easy enough to find, and not very expensive.

[sdbills]

I'm using rotella 15w40. I've only got about a 100 miles on this engine. I'm going to change oil this week. So far so good.

[blackthree4me]

I have always run 20w 50 but seems I might have to reconsider that?
so David whats the fix for the plate ?

[MURZ]

one of these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EMPI-16- ... dZViewItem

[LowFatBug]

the reformulation thing does not apply to all motor oils in the article it says

"The article I read is about diesel, but 15w40 is also for use in gasoline engines and a coming reformulation of this product may affect those of us who use this oil."

the only 2 weights of oil you should run in an aircooled vw motor is HD30 and 20W50, my preferance is Castrol. the HD30 should only be run in cold weather which we don't see much of here in Texas.

[staggerwing]

Just talked to one of the engineers here (I'm not one of them LOL, but we're in the automotive research business). I value the opinion of some of them... He said, "run 20/50 Mobil 1 and forget about it, you'll never have to change your oil again"... for what it's worth.

[David O']

Only if you have an oil filter.......the particales will STILL be in the oil unless you do.

[MURZ]

Run mobile 1 in a VW and that thing will be leaking like crazy. Synthetic oil is awesome....but not for a split case engine.

[staggerwing]

Maybe that's why this billet oil plate is leaking worse than the original, I stuck some 10/30 oil in the case the other day...

[Bill K]

Thanks for all the comments on oil.
I've been running straight 40w in my stock 1600. The concensus seems to be 20 / 50.
Any problem with switching to a different weight oil (20 / 50 ) from what I've been using (40w)?

[Bryan Porter]

Nope there should be no problem at all

[MURZ]

more reading....

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

[David O']

To keep the sump plate from leaking, first of all, clean the case and look to see if there are any pits in the bottom of the block where the gasket goes.
Make sure all of the sump plate studs are not stripped and that they are not sticking out of the bottom of the block too far.
Apply a little aviation permatex to one side of the gasket and put it in place.
Do the same to the sump screen.
Do the same to the next gasket.
Get one of the aluminum sump plates and apply a thin coat to the plate and install it.
Get two sets of the washers that go to the sump studs, and put them on with cap nuts.
Your done.
Most original sump plates leak due to the plate being pulled upwards toward the motor from years of tightening the nuts down.
In this case, YES, the billit sump plate will seal better.

[staggerwing]

"permatex"
Man, twenty five years ago I can remember me and Dad using some kind of Permatex on anything that had a gasket! Aviation Permatex? That must be the good stuff... will have to look for some tomorrow - ran out of time today. Thanks!

[Bill K]

I've used the Avaition Permatex, and like it. It think it's supposed to stay pliable.

[David O']

It does! By the way, to all who read this......10 weight oil was only used in the VWs when they were in REALLY cold climates. If you keep running 10 weight oil in these engines, you will spin the rods bearings. (Long explaination about that)