Texas Manx Club

by **Jim B** » 15 Mon Jun, 2009 10:05 pm

I have decided to skip the July 4 parade & begin the repairs on this thing, so I might can make it to the roundup. The engine was removed today & will pull trans tomorrow. I will be checking out the trans, as it doesn't have 3rd gear & replacing the rotted away mounts.

I also have a major rewire job to do. Looks like a birds nest under the dash. Will probably remove the body for this.

What companies would y'all reccommend for mail order parts? I would use sponsors if their shipping & prices are reasonable. I like to support the people that support my habits.

This project will be a little slow, as I have to mail order everything on this. It is a 50 mile drive from where I live out here in west Tx to just get a metric bolt or anything else.

by **CajunBuggy** » 16 Tue Jun, 2009 8:09 am

Welcome Jim! Can not wait to see your handy work.

by **Jim B** » 17 Wed Jun, 2009 3:51 pm

Everything is disconnected (I hope) the lifts are attached & the body will be coming off tomorrow. The further I go the more problems I find, lots of rust in the front section & shock towers are nearly rusted off the axle beam. Looks like I will be needing a new pan or chassis. Any suggestions??? Will a Super beetle fit or is it bigger?

Thanks in advance for any info,
Jim B

by **mike cook** » 17 Wed Jun, 2009 4:04 pm

you can get a new beam with adjusters so that will help with lowering. you can also replace the frame head and sheetmetal parts of frame if there rusted maybe easier then shortening anotherr pan plus you have title to this pan.I would think you could find someone to weld the stuff for you if your not a welder your self.The nice thing about buggies is the fact that every thing is pretty simple( except wiring for me) and everyone is very willing to help each other with labor or knowledge good luck do not get frustrated. I sold my buggy a year ago regreted it on the way home from delivering it now just started to do another

by **Bill K** » 17 Wed Jun, 2009 10:55 pm

Mike is very right: Don't get discouraged. These cars are a lot more complex to build than most casual observers ever imagine. BUT, the rewards are worth it all.

He is also right on target about "Seller's Remorse". I've sold three buggies, and almost immediately regretted what I had done, and then started on another one. They are infectious little machines.

by **Jim B** » 17 Wed Jun, 2009 11:11 pm

Thanks for the encouragement guys. This will get done. I already have a couple of parts vehicles to go look at in the next couple of days. The only discouragement was that I really wanted to take this to the Roundup & meet a bunch of you folks. It looks like it will be a little more time consuming than I thought, but can always show up, meet some members & check out everybody elses cars & get some ideas.

by **Bill K** » 17 Wed Jun, 2009 11:19 pm

YES INDEED, car or no car, please come join us at the Roundup. You'll get to meet some of the finest folks you ever find, and like you said, it will be a fantastic source of information and ideas.

by **Jack Duncan** » 17 Wed Jun, 2009 11:20 pm

That's what I did last year, and I knew nothing about VW's. I learned a lot by picking everyone's brain. I was almost ready in time for Fredricksburg. I made the Buggy Blast though.

by **Bill K** » 17 Wed Jun, 2009 11:24 pm

Yea, and he won all the door prizes and trophies too. :lol:

by **Jack Duncan** » 17 Wed Jun, 2009 11:27 pm

No comment!

by **CoryN** » 18 Thu Jun, 2009 12:26 pm

Jim B wrote:Thanks for the encouragement guys. This will get done. I already have a couple of parts vehicles to go look at in the next couple of days. The only discouragement was that I really wanted to take this to the Roundup & meet a bunch of you folks. It looks like it will be a little more time consuming than I thought, but can always show up, meet some members & check out everybody elses cars & get some ideas.

Don't feel bad - I've been to way too many of these buggy functions with my buggy still sitting at home. You'll still enjoy the function, and give you inspiration to get back at it.

by **jspbtown** » 18 Thu Jun, 2009 1:00 pm

Speaking of that Cory.....any updates?

by **CoryN** » 19 Fri Jun, 2009 7:50 am

I've been working on 3 SEC filings 20 hours a day for the last week and a half, so no updates. Hopefully get a chance to tinker this weekend (or sleep)

by **Jim B** » 19 Fri Jun, 2009 9:25 pm

I went parts hunting today. I found a very clean, no rust, 1967 pan with a good front BJ I-beam & a good working swingaxle transmission. Another big plus about this setup is that there is a title for the 1967 pan. My car is titled as a 1986 assembled vehicle, making it really hard to get a Texas inspection sticker for it. The pan will have to be shortened, but I think with all the info that I have found, I can do this. Does $400 sound like a pretty good deal on these parts? Is there any major reason to not want the swingaxle, or is it just a matter of living with the camber angles? Is it a major deal to level the car to where the camber is about straight up?

by **Jack Duncan** » 19 Fri Jun, 2009 10:40 pm

Jim, if you don't have the camber right you don't have 100% of the tire surface on the ground. Besides that, it looks really wierd. If you want to get the body really low, then you have to engineer a shift rod system that is above your tunnel to get the camber right. The IRS takes care of all that for you. Adjustments don't change the camber.

by **Bill K** » 21 Sun Jun, 2009 2:13 pm

I'm running a swing rear and Jack is right about the camber but with a little tinkering you can get it close. Personally, I wouldn't let a swing rear keep me from getting a good pan with a title.

by **Aquabuggy** » 21 Sun Jun, 2009 3:46 pm

It can be converted to IRS.
http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/1334/AC530004/

by **Jack Duncan** » 21 Sun Jun, 2009 4:21 pm

When I bought my VW, I didn't care of it was IRS or swing axle. I was just happy to have a donor with a title. Like Chris said, it can be converted. You can tinker with and get it right. Don't be discouraged by what I said. Go for it!

by **Jim B** » 21 Sun Jun, 2009 10:23 pm

Thanks for all the info. I think I'm going to go ahead with the swingaxle for now. It has a good transaxle with it & my IRS trans is bad. I can always have my trans rebuilt & change over to the IRS at a later date, if I'm not happy with the swing. And as Bill K says, it will get me a good pan w/ a 67 VW title and I won't have to worry about inspecting it as a 1986 model manufactured car. I've also been studying Vee Dub Nuts pics on his pan cut & will try to lay that out without removing the floors. Any suggestions on doing this will be appreciated.

Thanks Folks,
Jim B

by **Bryan Porter** » 22 Mon Jun, 2009 8:32 am

Inspecting the buggy is not a problem it just
gets a safety check no emsions check.

by **Jim B** » 22 Mon Jun, 2009 8:44 pm

Bryan- We do not have emmissions testing where I live, but from what I understand, is that with a 1986 title it will have to have all of the basic 1986 emission euipment on it. Cat Converter, EGR, Fuel vapor recovery etc. This is what two Texas State Inspectors have told me and it looks that way on the Texas Dept of Transportation site. I think I'd rather just register as a 67 VW & not have to worry about all that stuff. If this is not correct, my ears are open to which is the best route to take.

Thanks,
Jim B

by **Bryan Porter** » 23 Tue Jun, 2009 9:05 am

being a assembled vic. it is a limited production vic. and does not have
to have that because you are the builder.
If thay are that hard a 1967 would have to have to stock steering
wheel and seats.

by **Jim B** » 23 Tue Jun, 2009 2:56 pm

Bryan, the info below is from the Texas Dept. of Public Safety web site.
The way I read it , I would have to meet all the safety & emission standards of a 1986, since my car is registered as a 1986 assembled Vehicle.

Reconstructed or Rebuilt Vehicles
All vehicles used on the public highways are required to meet all of the state equipment laws and requirements; therefore, reconstructed or rebuilt vehicles which are using the public highways are also expected to meet all of the state equipment laws and regulations. Reconstructed or rebuilt vehicles in many instances fail to meet state requirements and, therefore, are not legal for use on the public highways.

All reconstructed or rebuilt vehicles (sand or dune buggies or hot rods) must comply with inspection requirements for the class of motor vehicle it is being inspected as, such as car, truck, motorcycle, or motor-driven cycle.

Be sure to check reconstructed or rebuilt vehicles for all required items of inspection with particular attention to the lighting devices. Head lamps shall be of a type acceptable by the Department. No modifications are allowed that will change the original design or performance of any lamp. Only acceptable automobile head lamps may be used on cars and trucks. Either the 7-inch head lamps or both dual head lamps (type 1 and type 2) may be used. Only acceptable motorcycle head lamps may be used on motorcycles, motor-driven cycles, and mopeds.

All lighting devices must be of an acceptable type that meet Department standards and must comply with the mounting heights as specified in the inspection requirements.

The year model of a reconstructed vehicle will be the same year in which it was reconstructed and not the year of original manufacture. Therefore, the inspection requirements would be for the model year of the vehicle (same as the year of reconstruction) or the year model of the engine itself, whichever is the later model.

Motor vehicles used for competitive racing, such as modified stock cars, dragsters, and hot rods may be inspected. When such a vehicle is presented for inspection, all rules and regulations regarding the inspection of the vehicle will apply. This applies to brake requirements, exhaust systems, as well as any other item required in these provisions.

Kit Kars
Vehicles have to meet the emissions standards for the year the vehicle is assembled. Vehicle manufacturers have to certify that their vehicles meet EPA emissions standards. A lot of kit car manufacturers also comply with this requirement. If you purchase one of these kit cars, follow the instructions on assembly, including the emissions components. You should be able to pass an emissions test just like any other new car.

Just as the EPA does not allow an individual to reverse engineer a vehicle to defeat emission standards, they do not allow an individual to build a brand new "old" vehicle to bypass emissions standards. It is possible if you actually use old parts (like a 1965 engine, or complete 60s frame and powertrain) that the vehicle will be registered as that model year (replica), but this is a TxDOT issue. However it is registered, is how DPS inspection stations will test it.

by **BrianB** » 23 Tue Jun, 2009 4:06 pm

This is a continual topic. There are a bunch of forms to fill out that you get from the county. They do not require the emissions testing to register as an assembled vehicle but I dont know about DPS who controls the inspection process.

Also the very last sentence in your post pretty much tells it all

by **blackthree4me** » 23 Tue Jun, 2009 9:59 pm

I did my pans with
a skill saw air hammer a grinder 110 flux core welder

use the skill saw and cutting blade to rugh cut out the old pan up to the chassie
use the air hammer to peel up the old pan skin still left after cutting
grind down spot welds
cut chassi per web direction (manx club)
cut pans per dune buggy nostalga procedure
weld in new pans stich weld or plug weld your choice.

just take it slow and do one thing at a time and it all comes together in the end

by **Bryan Porter** » 24 Wed Jun, 2009 8:52 am

Bottom line all buggies are Reconstructed vehicles so they should have to
pass the same test.
If you go by dps laws if you change the body,engine,or frame you
need to get a reconstructed title.

by **Jim B** » 24 Wed Jun, 2009 9:17 pm

blackthree4me- Thanks for the info. I am actually wanting to cut tunnel & floor pans at the same time. The complete chassis that I bought is in really good shape (no rust) so I don't need to replace the floor pans. I have been researching quite a bit of info & think this will be the way for me to go. My old chassis was done straight across & had some really bad stress cracks around the brake handle, so I will be reinforcing that area pretty good. Thanks for the pic & info. My eyes & ears are open to all suggestions on this project.

Hand Brake Area on Old Chassis

Jim B

by **Jim B** » 26 Fri Jun, 2009 1:48 pm

I have got things pretty well stripped down & body off of chassis. Pulled all the old electrical wire nests out. I will be going to Odessa TX to pick up a 1967 chassis (pan) trans & front axle tomorrow. Will have to shorten the pan & figure out what parts to order & the cleaning :cry:

painting & reconstruction can begin. A few pics of where I am at this point

Lifting the body

Body off

The wire nest under the dash. The rest of the wiring was just about like this.

by **Jack Duncan** » 26 Fri Jun, 2009 10:27 pm

The guy who wired that must be in a mental institution now. I know it would drive me crazy. I get the shakes just looking at it. Good luck!

by **Jim B** » 14 Tue Jul, 2009 10:20 pm

Been a while since I have posted. Haven't given up. I've been working on the Honey-Do list & doing some maintenence on our Lake Amistad place. It's also been to itchy hot in West Texas to be working in my non-insulated metal shop building. I have been doing lots of research & reading about buggies & have decided to join the rear section of my IRS pan to the front section of the replacement pan that I will be using. The front (from hand break forward, will be a 1967 pan & the rear will be from my 1968 IRS pan. Is there any reason that this won't work? I would need to cut a small section (serial number) out of the top of the tunnel & replace it with a piece from the 67, which I have a title for. I'm still planning on trying to make the Roundu (without buggy) to pick brains & take photos. This may be a good excuse to get my 89 Dodge Dakota Shelby out for a road trip.

It definitely needs the cobwebs blown out from under it.

by **freightshaker** » 14 Tue Jul, 2009 11:47 pm

Hey Jim Don't give up...I almost did to many times to count......You have a better start than what I started with....Lots of luck to you....

by **jspbtown** » 15 Wed Jul, 2009 9:12 am

Wiring like that makes me shutter. While the body is off yank it ALL out and start anew.

This is what mine looked like:

by **Jim B** » 17 Wed Feb, 2010 3:41 pm

Well, it looks like I'm going to finally be able to get back on this project. I have gathered a few parts & have done a little tinkering with it since the last post, but nothing that pics would show.
I need to replace the framehead bottom, the firewall support (napolean hat), and front sections of the floors. Who sells good quality parts that don't have to be rebuilt to get them to fit? Would like to do business with sponsors if at all possible. I'm also in need of an IRS transmission or need to have mine repaired. (No third gear). I plan on attending the VW classic as a spectator & would like to be able to maybe pick these parts up from someone there & exchange or let someone take my trans. for repair. I'm hoping this will work out & save a lot of freight charges. I'm looking forward to seeing the club members & all of their upgrades since the roundup. Any help & info will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim

by **BrianB** » 17 Wed Feb, 2010 4:46 pm

Glad to see you are still at it Jim. I was beginning to think nobody was working their buggies anymore :shock:

by **CoryN** » 17 Wed Feb, 2010 6:03 pm

BrianB wrote:Glad to see you are still at it Jim. I was beginning to think nobody was working their buggies anymore

I think a lot of people are working on their buggies, but no one is tipping their hand and showing anything.

by **Hawk** » 17 Wed Feb, 2010 7:48 pm

I have several frame heads if you need one.

by **Jim B** » 17 Wed Feb, 2010 9:44 pm

Thanks Hawk, I appreciate the offer, but I really only need to replace the bottom pan on it. The tunnel & front beam mount are OK . The bottom pan is pretty cheap item, but didn't want to get a new part that doesn't fit right. I have been researching on Samba & it looks like some dealers parts don't line up right. I may even wind up cutting out rust & welding in sheet metal patches. I have to convince my wife that I really need a decent MIG welder now. LOL

by **BrianB** » 18 Thu Feb, 2010 7:32 am

You can cut what you need out of one of those frame heads Hawk has.

by **Jim B** » 12 Sat Jun, 2010 7:24 pm

I have not given up on this project or sold out.LOL I have just been side tracked for a while, with a new hobby that requires quite a bit of time. (See Below)
I have been keeping up with what everybody is doing & there is some real nice new stuff out there. I'm hoping to make the Roundup again this year, as the
raceing season ends in August. I'm hoping to get back to work on the buggy this winter. Who makes repro sheetmetal that fits, without too many adjustments? I need
the bottom of framehead, front crossmember & front floorpan sections.

by **Jack Duncan** » 13 Sun Jun, 2010 6:56 pm

Mid-America VW Parts sells good quality sheet metal, made in Germany. The floor sections will have to be trimmed and fitted to your cutouts. Wasn't a big deal for me. Obviously you know how to weld sheet metal, so that's a GO for you. Good Luck!

by **Jim B** » 13 Sun Jun, 2010 7:56 pm

Thanks Jack. I have been checking out Mid Americas catalog, just didn't know if their stuff was a good fit.
I can weld but not real good at trimming & fitting.LOL

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